Saturday, 17 February 2018

Paolo di Dono known as Paolo Uccello

Florence art guide
  

Paolo di Dono known as Paolo Uccello

paolo uccello

Painter 
Pratovecchio, Firenze 1397-1475

The son of Dono di Paolo, surgeon and barber, and Antonia di Giovanni del Beccuto, was not only a wonderful painter, rightly acclaimed over the centuries, but also an extremely original and rather "different" artist in the Florence that was awakening to the Renaissance: it is not at all surprising that his work, the result of the empiric and alternating directions of his continuous experimentation, contains many singular simularities that have been compared with the Cubist and Surrealist schools of this century.
St.George and the dragon
St.George and the dragon
In 1407, when he was only 10 years old, Paolo was already working alongside the young Donatello as an apprentice in Ghiberti's workshop on the finishing touches of the first of the Baptistery doors. He was almost immediately nicknamed "Uccello" (Bird) or "degli Uccelli" (of the Birds) and this was probably because he especially loved painting ornamental friezes with birds and other animals. There is also a strong probability that he was also one of Gherardo Starnina's students (a Florentine, who worked in Spain between the 14th and 15th centuries and is believed to have been one of the "importers" of the international Gothic style to Florence), as well as being the real author of the fascinating Thebaid in the Uffizi.
Whether this is true or not, his formation did take place during the first two decades of the fifteenth century when the Gothic style and figurative culture were being subjected to continuous experimentation in the attempt to find a form of perspective unity. Unfortunately Paolo Uccello, who became a member of the Company of Painters of St. Luke in 1424, had already left Florence by 1425, because he had been invited to Venice to carry out some mosaics (today lost) in St. Mark's. The only example that remains of this early creative period is his Annunciation (1425), containing some very complicated perspective, in the Carnesecchi Chapel in Santa Maria Maggiore. He did not return for five years and was completely uninformed about what had, in the meantime, been Masaccio's revolution in the Carmine, while also knowing very little indeed about Brunelleschi's (highly secret) project for the Cupola of Santa Maria del Fiore, whose construction began in 1423.
John Hawkwood
Equestrian monument
of John Hawkwood
Therefore, when he came home in 1431, he was artistically rather behind the times as regards the marvellous new painting in Florence. He worked in Santa Maria Novella (the Stories of the Virgin in the Green Cloister, 1431 ca.) and in the Duomo, where, in 1436, in only three months, he carried out the fresco of the equestrian monument to the condottiere Sir John Hawkwood (or Giovanni Acuto as he was known in Italy), which brought him great fame: the horse's pose is similar to those in St. Mark's but the artist was more interested in the geometrical forms than a natural effect and, as a result, the entire fresco comes very close to the abstract painting of today. He also carried out the decorations on the great clock (1443) in Santa Maria del Fiore, placing four powerful heads of prophets at the corners, as well as preparing the cartoons of the Resurrection and the Nativity (1443-45) for two of the round stained-glass windows in the Cupola (the so-called "eyes"). In this period he also painted the frescoes in the Cathedral of Prato, in San Miniato al Monte (the Stories of Sainted Monks), as well as a privately commissioned series of small panels in what was still a Gothic and mythical style, like those of St. George and the Dragon in Paris and London (1456 ca.).
In 1445 he was invited by Donatello to Padua where he painted some Giants (now lost), which probably later influenced the young Mantegna, in the house of the Vitaliani family. By 1447 he was back in Florence again and had started work on the Stories of Noah in the Green Cloister in Santa Maria Novella: the lunette of the Flood (1446-48) in particular is a quite extraordinary piece of painting, for here the great artist seems to have wanted to try and use as many perspective projections as he could; the picture is constructed with a double vanishing point (only one is used in geometric perspective) and, as a result, many lines appear confused because they do not centre on the same point; the optic effects are increased and at times deform the figures, or otherwise create some really daring effects of foreshortening.
The battle of S.Romano
The battle of S.Romano
This fresco is a real masterpiece that breaks away from all the established rules.
The most important moment in Paolo Uccello's artistic career took place shortly afterwards, between 1456 and 1460, when he carried out the three paintings that celebrate the Battle of San Romano of 1432, where the Florentines, led by Niccolò da Tolentino, attacked and defeated the Sienese allies of the Visconti family from Milan. These three panels were carried out for a room in Palazzo Medici in Via Larga (only one of them is in the Uffizi today, the other two are respectively at the Louvre and the National Gallery in London) and summerize all the power and fascination of this genius of painting. Let us examine the panel in the Uffizi: an extremely crowded composition is placed in front of what is still a mediaeval type of background landscape, showing Bernardino della Ciarda being unhorsed and with warriors, armed with lances and crossbows, and horses painted in a variety of positions in the foreground. However the conflicting throngs of combatents are held together by the perspective, with the knights in armour almost looking like robots, the spears forming palisades and the crests on the helmets almost like bushes, while the atmosphere is rarified, with the brilliant colours creating an inlaid polychrome result: taken as a whole, the effect is that of an unreal game and, as such, will fascinate the Surrealists in this century.
Following this, the artist only carried out a few more predellas (the Miracle of the Host, 1469, Urbino), some small panels of profane subjects and a series of portraits, some in the style of Masaccio and others closer to the courtly elegance of Pisanello, but his good fortune was by now on the wane. After a period spent at the court of the Duke of Montefeltro at Urbino, he returned to Florence in 1469 where, "more poor than famous" and weighed down by suffering and economic worries, he was to die six years later.

Thursday, 15 February 2018

Italy rail distance costs

Any tips for buying point-to-point train tickets in Italy?

If a rail pass doesn't pencil out for your trip, you may be able to shave off the cost of your train tickets — or at least some of the hassle — with some of these tips:
  • Avoid train-station ticket lines whenever possible by using the ticket machines found in station halls.
  • If you do use the ticket windows, be sure to stand in the correct line.
  • You can buy train tickets (and make seat reservations) at major travel agencies in Italian city centers, reserving several key trains at one stop. The cost is only a little more, it can be more convenient (if you find yourself near a travel agency while you're sightseeing), there are no crowds, and the language barrier can be smaller than at the station's ticket windows.
  • Advance-purchase discounts are available online for reserved, medium-speed and faster trains (but not regional trains), and come in three price levels: "Super Economy" (up to 75 percent off), "Economy," and "Base" (full, unrestricted) fare. Privately owned Italo trains have similar advance-purchase rates between major cities.
  • Seniors (60 and older) can buy a Carta d'Argento (€30; free if 75 or older), which gives holders a 15 percent discount on most train tickets.
  • Youths (25 and younger) can buy a Carta Verde (€40), which gives holders a 10 percent discount on most train tickets.
  • If traveling with kids, ask for the "Offerta Familia" deal when buying tickets at a counter (or, at a ticket machine, choose "Yes" at the "Do you want ticket issue?" prompt, then choose "Familia"). While the deal doesn't apply to all trains at all times, with this discount families of three to five people with at least one kid (age 12 or under) get 50 percent off the child fare, and 20 percent off the adult fare. You may also see a "Bimbi Gratis" offer: One child age 5–15 free per adult who pays the full base fare. (Even without these deals, kids ages 3 and under travel free on Italian trains; ages 4–11 ride for half price on regional trains — and the half-price deal extends up to and including age 14 on long-distance Italian trains.)
  • Get even more advice on Italian trains in my full-length guidebooks for Italy: Rick Steves ItalyRick Steves RomeRick Steves Venice, or Rick Steves Florence & Tuscany.

Green and Silver Cards with Railplus discount

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With the Green and the Silver Card with Railplus discount young and senior can travel saving!

Green Card

The Green Card ("Carta Verde") with Railplus discountis for young people from 12 to under 26 years and costs 40 euro. It allows discounts of: 
  • 10% off Base fares (first and second class) on all national trains, including wagon lits and couchette, on service levels Business, Premium and Standard
  • 25% off on international connections

Silver Card

The Silver Card ("Carta d'Argento") with Railplus discount is for customers over 60 years and costs 30 euro (free for customers of 75 years and over). It allows discounts of 
  • 10% off wagon lits and couchettes, 
  • 15% off the Base Fares (first and second class) on all national trains and on service levels Business, Premium and Standard 
  • 25% off with the Railplus discount on international connections. 

Both the Green and Silver Cards can be bought at the station ticket desks and from the authorized travel agencies in Italy. 

Note: you must present a valid id or passport.

How to buy with the discount cards

To buy with the discount cards, after choosing your train, you have to proceed in the following way: 
  • Click on “see other prices and services” in the Choice of travel page
  • In the next page “customize trip” select in the price column "Carta Verde Railplus" or "Carta Argento Railplus" , digit the card number and go to the payment.

Validity

The cards are valid for one year, are nominative and must be shown together with the reduced-fare ticket during the journey. Please note that it is not possible to buy discounted tickets for a date that is after the Card's expiry date. 

In the event of loss, theft and destruction of the Card, by presenting a suitable documentation proof, you can request issuance of a duplicate by paying € 5,00 as cost refund (to customers who have reached 75 years of age, the duplicate is issued free of charge). 
No refunds are allowed.

Monday, 12 February 2018

Mt. Vesuvius and Pompeii Day Trip from Naples 4.5 star rating: Recommended 1544 Reviews Tour code: 2958VP Location: Naples, Italy Duration: 7 hours (approx.)

Discover the wonder of Europe’s only active volcano on this Mt Vesuvius and Pompeii day trip from Naples. Follow your local guide through the ancient ruins of this UNESCO World Heritage-listed city. Enjoy a traditional Italian pizza lunch with your small group and then hike to the top of the notorious volcano, where you’ll find stunning views of the Bay of Naples and the surrounding landscapes. Highlights Pompeii and Mt Vesuvius day trip from Naples Explore the fascinating ancient ruins of Pompeii with a guide See the destruction of Mt Vesuvius' massive eruption thousands of years ago Enjoy a pizza lunch with your fellow travelers Hike to the summit of Mt Vesuvius and peer into the crater Soak up views of the Bay of Naples from the volcano’s summit What You Can Expect Pompeii, Italy Your guide will collect you from your hotel or train station to kick off this Mt Vesuvius and Pompeii day trip from Naples. Venture into the ancient Roman city of Pompeii on a half-hour coach ride and learn the history behind the area that was infamously covered by ash nearly 2000 years ago.  Follow your guide on a 2-hour walking tour of this UNESCO World Heritage-listed site and learn about Europe’s largest archeological grounds. Stop at the Forum, Thermal Baths, Vetti’s House and the Lupanare brothel. Your guide will offer historical context and insight into local life here back in 79 AD. Once you’ve explored the grounds, savor an Italian pizza lunch with your group before enjoying time to wander the shops. Afterward, travel by air-conditioned coach to Mt Vesuvius and journey on a moderate hike to the top of the active volcano with your guide. At the summit, some 3,900 feet (1,200 meters) above sea level, take in panoramic views of the Bay of Naples. Roam around the volcano's mammoth crater and keep an eye out for plumes of escaping steam. If you prefer to skip the hike, you'll enjoy free time while waiting for the group, but the trip to the top is definitely worth the effort. After successfully climbing the top of Mt Vesuvius, relax with a ride back to your Naples hotel in your comfortable coach. 

Read more about Mt. Vesuvius and Pompeii Tour from Naples 2018 at: https://www.viator.com/tours/Naples/Mt-Vesuvius-and-Pompeii-Day-Trip-from-Naples/d508-2958VP?pub=vcps

Details Inclusions Hotel pickup and drop-off Professional guide in Pompeii and Mt. Vesuvius Entrance fees to Pompeii (approx. 15 euro) and Mt. Vesuvius (approx. 10 euro) Pizza with drink Exclusions Gratuities (optional) Additional info Confirmation will be received at time of booking, unless booked within 1 day of travel. In this case confirmation will be received as soon as possible, subject to availability Walking shoes and a coat are recommended when climbing Vesuvius Minimum numbers apply. There is a possibility of cancellation after confirmation if there are not 2 participants at least. In the event of this occurring, you will be offered an alternative or full refund Coach tour: group sizes of up to 50 people Please note that tour of Mt Vesuvius will could be provided in English only Voucher info You can present either a paper or an electronic voucher for this activity. What's this? Local operator information Complete Operator information, including local telephone numbers at your destination, are included on your Confirmation Voucher. Our Product Managers select only the most experienced and reliable operators in each destination, removing the guesswork for you, and ensuring your peace of mind. Cancellation Policy If you cancel at least 7 day(s) in advance of the scheduled departure, there is no cancellation fee. If you cancel between 3 and 6 day(s) in advance of the scheduled departure, there is a 50 percent cancellation fee. If you cancel within 2 day(s) of the scheduled departure, there is a 100 percent cancellation fee. Schedule and Pricing Click the link below to check pricing & availability on your preferred travel date. Our pricing is constantly updated to ensure you always receive the lowest price possible - we 100% guarantee it. Your currency is set to HKD. Click here to change your currency. View Pricing and Availability Departure point Your chosen option Departure time 9:45am at the cruise terminal, 10am in hotel or 10:20am at the station meeting point Hotel pickups commence prior to this time, you must contact the local service provider to verify your exact pickup time. Duration 7 hours (approx.) Return details Returns to original departure point Rail Pickup Code: 1030RAIL 10:20am pickup is outside the Naples train station on the left, close to the Star Hotel Terminus garage entrance. The driver will display a sign with the lead traveler's name on it Language options From HKD $862.12 Pricing details Hotel Pickup Code: 1015HOTEL 10am pickup from your Naples hotel. Exact pickup time will be advised upon reconfirmation. Language options From HKD $862.12 Pricing details cruise pickup Code: TG3 Pick-up point will be on the dock near the ship, outside the cruise terminal "stazione marittima" over the box of the security here: https://goo.gl/maps/GZXoX1TjsXw Language options

Read more about Mt. Vesuvius and Pompeii Tour from Naples 2018 at: https://www.viator.com/tours/Naples/Mt-Vesuvius-and-Pompeii-Day-Trip-from-Naples/d508-2958VP?pub=vcps

The Italian cities you'd never thought to visit (but really should)


Parma, known for its art, music and gastronomy
Parma, known for its art, music and gastronomy CREDIT: RH2010 - FOTOLIA

Italy summer booking guide

Planning a holiday to Italy? Read our expert guide to the best cities, including advice on Milan, Turin, Bologna, Genoa, Palermo, and Naples, including the Amalfi Coast and Sorrento. You will also find a list of tour operators offering city breaks. By Tim Jepson, Telegraph Travel's Italy expert.
RomeFlorence and Venice are three of the world’s greatest cities. The only problem is knowing how to make the best of a visit: for this, our online expert destination guides provide all the key information and recommendations you will need.
And yet it would be wrong to dismiss Italy’s many other major cities, which also offer rich culture and history, impressive architecture, and wonderful cuisine. If Rome, Florence and Venice are world class, then ­Milan and Naples are not far behind: almost as rich culturally, and just as tempting in terms of eating, drinking and as springboards for other Italian destinations.

Artwork in the Brera, Milan
Artwork in the Brera, Milan
However, Milan can come as a surprise to those familiar with Rome and Florence and expecting more of the same, for this is a more northern European city in look and feel. Looks aside, however, Milan has superlative shopping, eating and cultural attractions, notably the Duomo, the Scala opera house  and the Pinacoteca di Brera art gallery. There is also Leonardo’s Last Supper, but beware that it is so faded you may well agree with Aldous Huxley, who in 1925 described it as, “the saddest painting in the world”. Milan is also a major transport hub – Lake Como, for example, the prettiest of the Italian Lakes, is just over 30 minutes away by train (trenitalia.com).
Although less well known than Milan or Naples, Turin, near the border with France, and Bologna, in the northern Emilia-Romagna region, are places of which any other country would be proud, and deserve to be visited more.
Bologna
Bologna CREDIT: ALL RIGHT RESERVED/SANDRO FILENI
Turin is an unexpected gem, with a beautiful baroque heart full of cobbled streets, shady arcades and elegant historic cafés. As the capital of Piedmont, a gastronomic region par excellence (truffles from Alba, the wines of Barolo), it is also a great place to eat and drink, and offers three first-rank cultural sights: the Sabauda art gallery (galleriasabauda.beniculturali.it), the Palazzo Reale (ilpalazzorealeditorino.it) and the outstanding Museo della Cinema (museocinema.it).
Bologna, too, is a fine gastronomic centre, with a pleasing and tight-knit medieval centre of brick arcades, towers, churches, palaces and fascinating museums.
Genoa, Italy’s busiest port
Genoa, Italy’s busiest port
Still in the north, Genoa, Italy’s busiest port, built its fame and wealth on a seafaring tradition. Visitors here tend to be cruise passengers passing through, but linger in the jumbled, multi-level historic core and among the twists and turns you’ll find an eclectic mix of churches, galleries and palaces (museidigenova.it), along with a revitalised waterfront that in the state-of-the-art Aquarium (acquariodigenova.it) has one of Italy’s most-visited sights.
Further south-east, on the Tyrrhenian Sea, Naples is Milan’s polar opposite, so Latin – think pizza, opera, football, religion, family and Sophia Loren (born nearby) – as to be almost clichéd. Love this side of Italy and you’ll love Naples. Much has been done recently to tidy up the centre, but the city still has an edge and bustle that can be challenging, especially in summer heat. As a result, you may want to come here on a day trip from nearby Sorrento, less than an hour by train (eavcampania.it), or from the island of Capri or the Amalfi Coast. Like Sorrento, both are linked by a variety of ferry and hydrofoils.
Naples
Naples CREDIT: VLADSOGODEL - FOTOLIA
Whatever your approach to Naples, be sure to visit the Museo Nazionale Archeologico (cir.campania.beniculturali.it), home to treasures from nearby Pompeii and Herculaneum (pompeiisites.org) – the former accessible by train in 35 minutes – and consider the money-saving Campania Artecard (campaniartecard.it) if you’re visiting several sights.
Palermo, in Sicily, is not a prosperous city. Like Naples, it mixes the sublime with the sordid. Battered and bustling, it is not a place for all tastes, its traffic and decaying sense of baroque grandeur not for the fainthearted. At the same time, it is vibrant and atmospheric, a world apart that still bears the unique artistic, architectural – even culinary – stamp of its former Arab, Norman and Spanish rulers.
Italy’s major cities, of course, are only the start. The country has a plethora of historic “second” cities and large towns that are crammed with culture, as well as the gastronomic and other pleasures common to almost any Italian destination. Our recommendations among these many towns are 

1. Bergamo

Largely ignored by travellers in favour of nearby Milan, Bergamo is Lombardy's "finest hill town", according to Janette Griffiths, while its Piazza Vecchia is "one of the loveliest" in Italy.
The journalist and broadcaster Sian Williams is also a fan: "It's a charming walled city with lovely little winding streets where you can pick up a gelato, and is also the perfect base from which to explore the Lombardy countryside and the Italian lakes. The city and surrounding area are so romantic and just made for a short spring break."
Bergamo is Lombardy's "finest hill town"
Bergamo is Lombardy's "finest hill town" CREDIT: FREESURF - FOTOLIA

2. Ferrara

"Unlike so much of Italy, this little historical jewel of a city is not overrun by visitors," says Sarah Dunant. "Ruled for many centuries by the d'Este family, it has a beautifully preserved medieval quarter alongside a superb Renaissance one. Marking the divide is an exceedingly ostentatious half castle/half palazzo. Odd, but so interesting – rather like the city."

3. Lucca

It's a cliché, so obviously I hesitate to use the phrase, but Lucca – cultured, peaceful and urbane – really is Tuscany's best-kept secret.Within its majestic walls, its Roman and medieval heart is a medley of piazzas, tiny churches, art galleries and cobbled lanes; a place, in the words of Henry James, "overflowing with everything that makes for ease, for plenty, for beauty, for interest and good example".Why more people don't visit this perfect little town is a mystery – it's not as if it's off the beaten track. Far from it: one of its attractions is its proximity to Pisa, served by several British airlines.
A summer festival in Lucca
A summer festival in Lucca

4. Mantua

The ideal way to approach Mantua – Mantova in Italian – is down the River Mincio from Lake Garda. Failing that, stand on the bridge near Porta San Giorgio from where the city's sultry Arabian Nights' skyline of domes and towers seems to hover above the water. It's ridiculously romantic.
Wrapped in water, where the Mincio broadens into three lakes, Mantua is an overlooked Renaissance gem; a mini-Florence, rich with art, intrigue and infidelities. Where Florence had the Medicis, Mantua had the Gonzagas. Shrewd businessmen who married well, the dynasty ruled the city for more than 300 years, from the 14th century, commissioning the finest Renaissance craftsmen they could afford.

5. Matera

Fifty years ago, Matera was one of the poorest towns in western Europe, with some 20,000 people crammed into the sassi, a honeycomb of ancient and wretched cave dwellings that riddled the ravine below the town. Cleared in the Sixties,  the caves had remained derelict until recently, but now some 2,000 people have returned, along with cafés, galleries, restaurants and, above all, hotels, sparking a renaissance in Matera’s fortunes. But even without the caves – which Unesco describes as 'the most outstanding example of a troglodyte settlement in the Mediterranean' – the rest of the town would be an unusual and beautiful place to visit; a glorious, honey-stoned medieval vision of tiny alleys, sleepy squares, and sweeping views over a strangely empty but enchanting landscape.
Matera
Matera

6. Parma

"This genteel northern Italian city known for its art, music and gastronomy, and the streets look as if they've been dipped in honey," says Sara Evans. "Everything one passes appears mellow and muted. Sepia-coloured stucco houses on elegant cobblestoned streets take on a vintage, old-gold feel. In the piazzas, the sun-kissed water in the fountains shimmers softly and feel warm to the touch."

7. Pisa

Giorgia Orlandi says: "Galileo Galilei, the father of modern science, was not the only famous thinker with strong ties to Pisa. Since its golden era from the 9th to the 13th century, the city has been a sanctuary for artists, writers and poets – and it has lost none of its charm."

8. Ravenna

"The Unesco-listed Byzantine mosaics of Ravenna are among the wonders of Italy," says Anne Hanley. "They’re even more dazzling when illuminated by night. During the Mosaico di Notte season (late June to early September), four of the Adriatic city’s major sixth- to eighth-century monuments, including San Vitale and the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, are open for guided tours on Tuesday and Friday evenings from 9pm-11pm. Time your visit to coincide with the feast of Sant’Apollinare, the city’s patron saint, and you’ll see Ravenna come alive with concerts, street-food stalls, fireworks and sound-and-light shows." 

9. Siena

Siena takes some beating. In the Campo, its central piazza, it possesses Europe’s finest medieval square, scene of the Palio horse race, Italy’s most dramatic historical spectacle. Its cathedral is central Italy’s most beautiful, and the art in the many churches, galleries and museums would keep you busy for weeks. Above all, though, the city is an intimate and civilised place – a place alla misura dell’uomo, or “made to the measure of man”, as the Italians have it – and its sleepy, honey-stoned streets are in marked medieval contrast to the more gaunt and impersonal grandeur of Florence’s Renaissance heart.
Beautiful Siena
Beautiful Siena CREDIT: SABINO PARENTE/SABINO PARENTE

10. Trieste

The Italian port of Trieste bristles with life, has a fascinating history and serves - probably - the finest coffee in the country, according to Helen Pickles. "To discover the secret of a happy life head to Trieste, the Italian port tucked inside the Slovenian border," she adds. "The Triestini embrace life with a passion that is palpable and infectious, if the chatter at evening aperitivo is anything to go by. And at the merest hint of sunshine, Triestini are off to the nearby seaside, Barcola, even in November, and even though it's a concrete strip. "This unsquashable humour is no doubt born of being a frontier city, variously owned or occupied by the Romans, Habsburgs, Mussolini's regime, Germans and Allied Forces, only finally returning to Italy in 1954. The consequence is a glorious jumble of architectural and ethnic influences. In the space of 15 minutes, I came across Serbian Orthodox, Greek Orthodox and Helvetic Evangelist churches, while the city's synagogue is one of the largest in Europe."
Trieste bristles with life
Trieste bristles with life

11. Vicenza 

Sophie Butler says: "Nearly always overlooked in favour of nearby Venice, Vicenza has to work hard to entice visitors away from its celebrated neighbour. But the small, almost perfectly formed city in the flatlands of northern Italy's Veneto is a wonderful destination in its own right. It is gloriously embellished with neoclassical architecture, stylish hotels and excellent regional restaurants."

12. Verona

"Verona claims to have more Roman ruins than any Italian city other than Rome," says Simon Brooke. "But it wears this honour lightly. Most of its streets and many of its buildings incorporate the majestic remains of ancient walls, roads and villas into their fabric with a sort of nonchalant pragmatism. Even by Italian standards, the city also has more than its fair share of medieval, Renaissance art and culture."
Verona
Verona CREDIT: OLEZZO - FOTOLIA

13. Treviso

No-frills flights to Venice often land in Treviso, some 20 miles away. But there's good reason to delay the onward trip, reckons Lee Langley. He adds: "The centre of Treviso is a little walled city, with medieval gates, narrow, cobbled streets of arcaded rose-red brick and stone that twist and turn like dried-out water courses - which is what some of them originally were. Tiny canals run past handkerchief-sized gardens, glide beneath houses, appear at street corners. Gushing millstreams, some with black water-wheels that once had a commercial purpose, now turn lazily, playing a purely decorative role."
Treviso
Treviso

14. Brescia

Kiki Deere explains: "It's an ancient settlement with impressive Roman remains, Renaissance squares and a medieval centre. The city is famous for its Mille Miglia car race in May when classic vehicles travel to Rome and back (the car race inevitably attracts its share of tourists but during the rest of the year there are hardly any)."

15. Udine

"One of the most important cities of the Venetian Republic, it is today home to grand architecture and galleries displaying scores of works by Italian painter Giambattista Tiepolo," says Kiki Deere.
Following a visit in 2012, Donald Strachan wrote: "This area was part of the Austrian Empire between 1797 and 1866 and there's still a dash of the Habsburg in Udine's thriving café society. The prosperous centre is compact, clean and organised – those Austrians again – with a warren of tiny piazzas and a pleasing ratio of bakeries and butchers to postcard vendors.
Everywhere I walked, I also met Venice, the city that ruled the region for almost 400 years. Piazza della Libertà, Udine's architectural set-piece, is dominated by the Loggia del Lionello, whose Gothic arcades, dressed in pastel-pink banding, mirror the Doge's Palace. And the Lion of St Mark, symbol of Venice, is carved prominently on Andrea Palladio's Arco Bollani and the Renaissance Loggia di San Giovanni."