宜蘭在消失中

劉克襄 

以前去宜蘭，最喜歡看大景。

好像不管站在哪個角度，都有機會遠眺阡陌交錯、田疇千里的開闊，還有銜接遠山含黛的壯麗。一個人尋常的生活裡，跟土地的關係，總覺得就是要有這樣一幅無可取代的風景，調節人生的起落。

那是身為宜蘭人的驕傲，也是外地人可以分享的幸福。你不一定要長住，但經過時，隱隱然感覺人與自然的和諧還存在著。更因為它不會改變，生命因此萌生了美好家園的希望。

只可惜，這樣的質地近幾年已然走調。

雪隧通車後，生活通學方便了，物產運輸暢通了，城市發展也繁華了。快速便捷的高速公路，確實帶來許多效益，經濟成長指數變得亮麗。怎奈可以列出的負面，做為對照的恐怕也不少。其中最嚴重，最讓人痛心的，便是此一地景的消失。

如今若以「看見台灣」的空拍高度，不刻意取景稻穗金黃的時節，或者只捕捉剩餘的幾畝完整水田，這塊錦繡瑰麗的綠色地毯，勢必出現愈來愈多大塊焦灰和蒼白的汙點。

這些霉菌般的汙點，多半是新興農舍。過去以水田為基準，一望無垠的永續地景，在雪隧通車後，大量地成為北台投資客買屋購地的熱門地點。自從2000年中央頒布寬鬆的農地興建農舍辦法後，全國九千多件農舍申請案，有六千多件在宜蘭。尤其是晚近四年，每年有七百多戶的新興農舍，從蘭陽平原冒出。

新興農舍九成以上幾無農用，只是借地養地。許多購買者鑽法律漏洞，巧立名目，讓青綠水稻或菜圃農地變成造景庭園、廢土填倒、水泥停車場。進而導致耕地消失、破碎，農田水圳受到汙染。社區民心也漸受影響，生活價值改變。這些假農舍，對宜蘭的衝擊是多面向的。

其實位於水田中央的現代農舍非常不適合平日起居，不方便就醫，也不適合養老和育幼。如果缺乏務農的樂趣，住在水田中央，猶若住在孤島的荒涼，跟在地人產生疏離感，更是破壞環境的元凶。若要遷居宜蘭，應選擇小村聚落或集合式住宅，人才會有互助，充分體驗淳樸的農村生活。

現行的農地興建農舍政策，確實仍有諸多不夠周延。除了未來盡快修法，政府要亡羊補勞，應該積極宣導居住觀念和農地正義，形成社區的道德意識，更能促發移民者興發在地環保責任的義務。

相對於此，在地方老農逐漸凋零，農地萎縮時，晚近不少年輕農夫願意下鄉租地從事農耕，似乎讓我們看到一點希望。水田地景彷彿也有搶救的機會，還來得及護住共同的景觀。只是他們也常遇到困境，譬如租耕土地常被地主賣掉，必須再換地方耕種。政府或可研商建立租地的機制，藉此保護水田的面積。同時，落實農地農用，全面地嚴謹查緝，違法使用的情形，協助這一波務農運動。

蘭陽平原的郊野不只具有保育生態環境、維護人文歷史，或者帶來永續生產的功用。遼遠綺麗的鄉村風景，還能帶來永續的療癒效果。它是無上生活美學的價值，世世代代共有共享的財富。

此一景觀自治條例早就該積極規範，不能停留在只聞樓梯響的階段。我們享受景觀的權利非旦不能被剝奪，日後更該興發公民運動，提出法律控訴，爭取這個遠眺的空間。這不是宜蘭人應該的覺醒，也是台灣其它地方都要努力爭取的。

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10 of the best free museums in Europe

Continuing our series on seeing the world for free, we round up 10 attractions, from Istanbul to Reykjavik, that don't cost a cent

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  • theguardian.com, Tuesday 21 January 2014 14.55 GMT
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Raoul Dufy's room, La Fee Electricite, in the Musee d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris. Photograph: Alamy

We like to grumble, but when it comes to museums, we've got it pretty good in the UK, with free entry to many major museums. In London, for example, it's possible to pop into places like the National Gallery, the British Museum or the Tate on your lunch break without making a dent in your sandwich money. Most museums in Europe do charge an entry fee, but there are still plenty of opportunities for budget travellers to get a free culture fix. Many cities have adopted a free first Sundays scheme, giving visitors access to the permanent collections once a month, while many other museums offer free entry on other days. And of course there are still museums around Europe that offer free entry every day. Some may be small, specialised, or hard to get to – such as the Florence Nightingale Museum in Istanbul – but many, such as the Modern Art Museum in Paris, or the Berardo Collection in Lisbon, are just as grand and comprehensive as their pricier counterparts. Here are 10 free museums across the continent that are worth checking out.

Musée d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris

While it may not have quite the je ne sais quoi of the Pompidou Centre, Paris's modern art museum still boasts an enviable collection, with over 9,000 works illustrating all the major art movements of the 20th century. In 2010 five masterpieces by Picasso, Matisse, Braque, Modigliani and Léger were stolen in "the art heist of the century", a haul worth over £80m. The crime was never solved, but the remaining works, displayed in a vast 1930s building with looming pillars, are more than enough for an afternoon wander. 
• parismusees.paris.fr/mam, Tues-Sun 10am-6pm, closed Mondays and public holidays

Amsterdam Stadsarchief

The geometric facade of the Amsterdam Stadsarchief, city archives building Photograph: Alamy

Amsterdam's Stadsarchief (city archive), is housed in an imposing, though gritty-looking building, originally the headquarters of an investment bank. Inside, its tiled rooms are decorated with bold, jagged, graphics and patterns. The Treasures of Amsterdam exhibition is a collection of artefacts in the underground Treasury that help tell the story of the city – worth a good nose around while anxiously hoping the heavy vault doors stay open until you're done. 
• stadsarchief.amsterdam.nl, Tues-Fri- 10am–5pm, Sat-Sun noon–5pm

Berlin Wall Memorial

Visitors in front of photos of victims of the Berlin Wall, Berlin Wall Memorial Photograph: Alamy

While the ghost of the Berlin Wall still lingers around much of the city, this memorial and museum is a fantastic place to learn about the concrete strip that once divided the German capital. The site contains a piece of the wall, with the grounds around it preserved to give a true-to-life impression of the dead space it once occupied – where many who tried to cross were killed by border guards. The visitor centre offers film and books about the wall, while the documentation centre, due to reopen this winter with a viewing platform overlooking the site, includes an overview of events leading up to and following the wall's construction. 
• berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Open-air exhibition and memorial grounds open Mon-Sun 8am-10pm. Visitor Centre open Tues-Sun 9.30am-7pm (6pm November-March)

National Museum, Copenhagen

Inside the National Museum in Copenhagen. Photograph: Alamy

Charting the history of the Danes since prehistoric times, the National Museum is a proud and comprehensive collection. Particularly interesting is the Stories of Denmark exhibition, which uses thousands of everyday objects to illustrate how life has changed in the country since 1660. It's good for families, with a dedicated children's museum, where the kids can try on period dress and pretend to be Vikings. 
• natmus.dk, Tues-Sun 10am-5pm. The children's museum closes at 4.30pm

Berardo Collection Museum, Lisbon

People visit one of the rooms in the Berardo Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art in Lisbon. Photograph: Jose Manuel Ribeiro/Reuters/Corbis

A recent, and impressive, addition to Lisbon's list of cultural attractions, the Berardo Museum opened its collection of modern and contemporary art to the public in 2007. The modern space is filled with vibrant works by all the hard-hitting pop artists, such as Warhol, Pollock and Lichtenstein, as well as greats such as Picasso, Baco and Dali. Regular temporary exhibitions focus on specific artists or themes: there's a wonderful display of vintage posters you simply wish you could own, selected from the museum's unparalleled collection of advertising art. 
• museuberardo.pt. Tues-Sun, 10am-7pm

Musée des Beaux-Arts, Nice

The grand staircase inside the Musée des Beaux-Arts. Photograph: debs-eye/Flickr

Housed inside the striking former mansion of a Ukrainian princess, this museum's building is a spectacle in itself. Once past the iron gates, and through the elegant gardens, you will find an art collection spanning realism, romanticism and symbolism, with works from Monet to Rodin displayed within its palatial rooms. The collection of Raoul Dufy's work in particular is worth a look once you've finished admiring the mansion's gleaming marble interior. 
• musee-beaux-arts-nice.org. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm

Museo del Prado

Tourists admire Charles IV and family by Goya at the Madrid Museo del Prado Photograph: Alamy

The Prado, one of Madrid's most popular attractions, is simply huge, so it's a real treat that entry is free every evening. There's no need to race through the neoclassical hallways in a futile attempt to see all the sculptures, portraits and murals on display: our advice is to drop in on a couple of evenings and view the rich pickings at your leisure. Highlights include The Annunciation, a lavish gold altarpiece crafted by Fra Angelico in the 15th century, and Peter Paul Rubens' The Three Graces. The museum also offers useful route suggestions for visitors pressed for time. 
• museodelprado.es, free entry Mon-Sat 6pm-8pm, Sundays and holidays 5pm-7pm

Florence Nightingale Museum, Istanbul

Selimiye Barracks in Istanbul, where the Florence Nightingale museum is located. Photograph: Alamy

This is not the most straightforward museum to visit – you've got to arrange an appointment by fax at least 48 hours in advance – but it's worth it for anyone fascinated by the Crimean War and the story of the lady with the lamp. The museum is within the Selimiye Army Barracks, built in 1799, which was the military hospital where Nightingale and her students developed the nursing techniques that saw her go down in medical history. Inside you can explore her personal living quarters, as well as the room that served as an operating theatre. Adding to the experience, which differs from the usual museum fare, is the fact that the guides are usually young soldiers on their military service. 
• To arrange a visit, fax the museum on +90 216 553 1009 or +90 216 310 7929 at least 48 hours in advance, stating the date and time of planned visit and including a photocopy of your passport

Museo Storico della Liberazione, Rome

A cell inside the Museo Storico della Liberazione. Photograph: Stefano Montesi/Demotix/Corbis

During the second world war, this building in Rome's Via Tasso was taken over by the German security forces, who used it as a headquarters and a base from which to murder and imprison many of the city's civilian population. Once an infamous site of terror, the building is now a museum and the rooms that were once cells for political prisoners are dedicated to the memory of those who were detained. 
• viatasso.eu. Tues-Sun 9.30am-12.30pm, Tues, Thur, Fri 3.30pm-7.30pm

Reykjavik Museum of Photography 

Reykjavik Museum of Photography. Photograph: smallestbones/Flickr

If you thought the 642 holiday snaps you have on iPhoto were impressive, brace yourself; the Reykjavik Museum of Photography has a collection of around five million photos, dating from 1870. As well as the permanent collection, which also includes objects relating to the art of photography, by contemporary Icelandic photographers.

• ljosmyndasafnreykjavikur.is, Mon–Thurs noon–7pm, Fri noon–8pm, weekends 1pm-5pm

11 European Museums You Should See In Your Lifetime

Posted by Adam Taplin on November 03, 2009 at 11:59:18 AM EST | Post a Comment

If you've never been to these museums, you're missing out. From ancient books in Ireland to modern architecture in Spain, here are Europe's essential museums.

What did we miss? Let us know your favorite European museums in the comments.

LOUVRE

France's Grande Dame (Paris)

France's grandest museum was a royal palace until the French Revolution, when it was transformed into the home for the young Republic's art collection. The Big Three—Mona Lisa, Winged Victory, and Venus de Milo—should not be missed.

Current Exhibit: "Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese... Venetian Rivalry." An exploration of the artistic rivalry that pushed three painters to influence and inspire one another. Through January 4th, details at the exhibit's mini-site.

MUSEUM ISLAND

Something for Everyone (Berlin)

Germany's capital has over 150 museums, but this spot should be your first stop. It holds five state museums with world-class collections ranging from classical antiquities to 20th century paintings and sculpture.

Current Exhibit: "Paul Pfeiffer 'The Saints.'" Witness Paul Pfeiffer's recreation of the legendary 1966 World Cup final between West Germany and England in a huge (and hugely powerful) installation of sound and video. Through March, details on the Staatliche Museen website.

BRITISH MUSEUM

An Archaeologist's Treasure Trove (London)

The self-appointed protector of treasures from around the globe, this vast museum is packed to bursting with antiquities and alluring objects. Among the greatest hits are the Parthenon Marbles, the Rosetta Stone, and Egyptian mummies.

Current Exhibit: "Moctezuma." An exploration of ancient Aztec civilization and Moctezuma II, the Mexica's last elected leader. Through January, details on the British Museum's website.

BOOK OF KELLS

Home of Ireland's National Treasure (Dublin)

Often called "the most beautiful book in the world," this manuscript dating to the 8th or 9th century is a marvel of intricacy and creativity, executed by monks working with reed pens. You can visit it at Trinity College in Dublin.

Current Exhibit: "Turning Darkness Into Light." This exhibit provides extra historical perspective prior to viewing the book itself, and other important books—including the Book of Armagh, the Book of Durrow, the Book of Mulling and the Book of Dimma—are displayed on a rotating basis. Details on Trinity College's website.

VATICAN MUSEUMS

Europe's Classic Chapel (Rome)

The lines waiting for entry here can be intimidating, but the reward—a vast collection of masterpieces, highlighted by the Sistine Chapel—makes it well worth the wait.

Current Exhibit: "Astrum 2009." Well. You'll probably make a beeline for the Sistine Chapel, but if not, check out this collection of rare instruments for observing the sky. Details on the Vatican Museum website.

GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI

Renaissance Art Hall of Fame (Florence)

The Uffizi—Renaissance art's hall of fame—contains masterpieces by Leonardo, Michelangelo, Raphael, Botticelli, Caravaggio, and dozens of other luminaries.

Current Exhibit: "Splendour and Reason: Art in Eighteenth-Century Florence." A history of art in Florence after the Medicis left the scene. Details on the Uffizi website.

RIJKSMUSEUM

Home of the Dutch Masters (Amsterdam)

This is the place to go when you're looking for Dutch masters, including Rembrandt, Vermeer, Hals, and a slew of others.

Current Exhibit: "The Masterpieces." According to their site, the Rijksmuseum is displaying the "crème de la crème of their permanent collection" while a renovation is under way. Through November Details on the Rijksmuseum website.

MUSEU CALOUSTE GULBENKIAN

Quality Not Quantity (Lisbon)

The collection here—one part devoted to Egyptian, Greek, Roman, Islamic, and Asian art, the other to European— isn't large, but the quality is high. Add a stroll through the sculpture garden, and you have a great museum experience.

Current Exhibit: "Art Deco, 1925." A curated selection of the very best works that appeared in an age-defining exhibition, the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts in 1925. Through January, details on the Calouste Gulbenkian website.

THE NATIONALMUSEET

All About Vikings (Copenhagen)

Immerse yourself in the Viking exhibits here; one shows how the Vikings could navigate their ships across vast oceans at a time when most people believed the world was flat.

Current Exhibit: "Indians of the Rainforest." The museum has an ethnographic wing, and the current special exhibit follows the Hiwi, Hoti, and Panare Indians through their life on southern Venezuela's Orinico River. Details on the Nationalmuseet website.

GUGGENHEIM MUSEUM

Architectural Innovation (Bilbao)

All swooping curves and rippling forms, this architecturally innovative museum was built on the site of the city's former shipyards and inspired by the shape of a ship's hull. The collection is pretty good as well, including such masters as Picasso and Miró.

Current Exhibit: "Frank Lloyd Wright." A retrospective of the world's most famous modern architect. Through February, details on theGuggenheim website.

MUSEO DEL PRADO

Spanish Masterpieces (Madrid)

Set in a magnificent neoclassical building on one of the capital's most elegant boulevards, the Prado is Spain's answer to the Louvre and a regal home to renowned Spanish masterpieces. Much of the collection dates back to the museum's inauguration in 1819.

Current Exhibit: "Juan Bautista Maíno." Includes 35 works by the artist and a further 31 by the painters who most influenced his artistic development, among them Velázquez and Caravaggio. Through January 17th, details on the Museo del Prado website.

What did we miss? Let us know your favorite European museums in the comments.

More by Adam Taplin, Fodor's Editor

Top Ten Art Galleries in Europe

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When travelling across Europe there are so many sights to see so just to make sure you don’t forget any of the best galleries and paintings on your trip, here are our top ten recommendations.
1. The Louvre, Paris 
   
   The world famous home of the Mona Lisa is an artwork in itself and the beautiful architecture along with the world famous pieces which reside here, make the Louvre a sight not to be missed when you’re in Paris. The gallery is currently hosting the Art of Paper exhibition, which displays pieces created using paper between the 15th Century and the modern day. The exhibition will include 60 pieces from Botticelli to Braque and Picasso to Rubens, demonstrating the importance of paper within art, be it sketches or techniques.
2. The Tate Britain and the Tate Modern, London
   
   For a first visit to London the Tate Britain is a must - housing British art from 1500 to the present day and giving the visitor a comprehensive view of the country’s culture within the art world. The Tate’s younger sibling - the Tate Modern, hosts a collection of international art from 1900 to the modern day with an eclectic mix of exhibitions, and contemporary art forms. The art in this old power station often comes with an experimental twist and the Tate Modern is home to the likes of Damien Hirst, Tracey Emin and Jeff Koons, so expect paintings, sculptures, and installations like you have never seen before.
3. The National Gallery, Prague 
   
   Prague’s National Gallery exhibits a mix of Czech artwork, Baroque pieces and Cubism. The gallery will be exhibiting items from local 19th Century Czech painter Jan Preisler – including his Fairy Tale collection, until September 30, 2011. This is a unique opportunity to see first-hand, one on Prague’s most famous artists in the surroundings that inspired him.
4. The Groeninge Museum, Bruges
   
   For an art lover in Bruges the Groeninge Museum is the perfect place to experience the mesmerising collection of work from Belgium and the Netherlands, dating from the 18th Century. The museum displays an eclectic mix of historic paintings with post-1945 pieces too. A visit to the gallery will give you a valuable insight into the artistic culture of the city.
5. The Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam
   
   Amsterdam presents one of their most famous national treasures - Van Gogh, in a museum dedicated to his life and work. This is complimented by other 19th Century artists and contemporaries of Van Gogh. This museum holds an extensive selection of Van Gogh’s work at various stages across his career.
6. The National Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art (GNAM), Rome
   
   Rome’s National Gallery was founded in 1883 and yet prides itself on maintaining a contemporary standing. The gallery houses some of the 20th Century’s greatest artists including Dutch painter Mondrian, along with many of Italy’s finest.
7. East Side Gallery, Berlin Wall
   
   In 1990, after the fall of the Berlin Wall, 118 artists gathered from across the globe to transform the remaining section into an open-air gallery with over 100 paintings. The East Side Gallery allows you to take in the historic importance of the location as well as viewing the wonderful artwork commemorating the location. After being neglected in the 1990s, restoration and refurbishment has just been completed, making it better than ever.
8. Musée D'Orsay, Paris 
   
   The stunning Musée D’Orsay is a beautiful landmark in itself, made even more beautiful by the world famous paintings and sculptures it is home to. Cézanne, Monet and Renoir are all permanently on display here. Entry is €8
9. Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (MNAC), Barcelona
   
   This is one of many breathtaking buildings Barcelona and it’s here where you can explore Catalan history through paintings, sculptures and photographs – to get a unique insight into this historic culture. Specialising in Catalan Art with particular reference to the Gothic and Romanesque genres, the collection and the surroundings make for a breathtaking experience.
10. Scottish National Galleries, Edinburgh
    
    Edinburgh has a collection of three National Galleries, the Portrait Gallery, the Modern Gallery and the National Gallery. Each specialise in their particular genre and between these institutes they house the best Scottish artworks anywhere in the world. If you love paintings, prints, photographs and sculptures,3 you’ll love the Scottish National Galleries.




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