- A unique approach to northern Morocco’s heritage and relationship with southern Spain.
- Led by an expert in Moroccan history.
- 3 nights in Rabat, Morocco’s often overlooked but charming capital.
- Excellent hotels and restaurants throughout.
INTRODUCTION
Tangier, Morocco.
Morocco, tucked away in the northwest corner of Africa and girded by the Atlantic Ocean, the great Atlas mountain ranges, and the vast expanses of the Sahara, is a country of enduring mystery. Often considered exotic and forbidding by Europeans, one of its greatest secrets is its deep cultural connection with southern Spain and Portugal, long ruled by Muslims who called it al-Andalus. They created a sparkling Arab-Islamic culture celebrated in poetry, song and iconic buildings including the immense great mosque of Cordoba and the stunningly beautiful hilltop Alhambra palace.
From the outset this culture was shared with Morocco. Travellers constantly went back and forth and in the eleventh and twelfth centuries, the Moroccan Berber Almoravid and Almohad dynasties made al-Andalus part of a vast North African empire. Under the Almoravids, West African gold paid Andalusi scholars and craftsmen and the architecture of Cordoba embellished the cities of Morocco, while under their Almohad successors, a new dramatic architectural style fused the Andalusi genius with Berber dynamism.
When disaster struck al-Andalus in the form of the Christian conquest (reconquista) in the thirteenth century, the trickle of Spanish Muslims and Jews to Morocco became a flood. These refugees invigorated the cultures of the cities where they settled bringing with them their skills and aesthetic sense, and their music and poetry which gained a new depth and poignancy in laments about the loss of al-Andalus. The last wave of migrants were the Moriscos, Muslims forcibly converted to Christianity in the sixteenth century and finally expelled from Spain in the early seventeenth century. Deeply bitter towards their erstwhile Christian Spanish compatriots, many became pirates preying on Spanish New World shipping. A handful, the infamous Sallee Rovers, founded the Republic of the Bou Regreg in a ruined fort outside Rabat where they were joined by Dutch and English pirates until their republic was destroyed by the ancestors of the current kings of Morocco.
This tour traces the story of the myriad connections between al-Andalus and Morocco, their cultural legacy, and their imprint on the mountains and fertile green plains of northern Morocco. We shall explore the twelfth century architectural fusion of Andalusi and Berber styles in the great Almohad monuments of Rabat, and witness the handiwork of Andalusi and Maghribi craftsmen in the beautiful jewel-like Marinid madrasas of Fez, Meknes and Salé, built at the same time as the Alhambra palace. We shall also visit coastal towns rebuilt all or in part by Andalusi migrants with characteristic Mediterranean whitewashed walls and blue or green paintwork, and see the strongholds from which Andalusis fought back in Rabat and the isolated mountain town of Chefchaouan.
From the outset this culture was shared with Morocco. Travellers constantly went back and forth and in the eleventh and twelfth centuries, the Moroccan Berber Almoravid and Almohad dynasties made al-Andalus part of a vast North African empire. Under the Almoravids, West African gold paid Andalusi scholars and craftsmen and the architecture of Cordoba embellished the cities of Morocco, while under their Almohad successors, a new dramatic architectural style fused the Andalusi genius with Berber dynamism.
When disaster struck al-Andalus in the form of the Christian conquest (reconquista) in the thirteenth century, the trickle of Spanish Muslims and Jews to Morocco became a flood. These refugees invigorated the cultures of the cities where they settled bringing with them their skills and aesthetic sense, and their music and poetry which gained a new depth and poignancy in laments about the loss of al-Andalus. The last wave of migrants were the Moriscos, Muslims forcibly converted to Christianity in the sixteenth century and finally expelled from Spain in the early seventeenth century. Deeply bitter towards their erstwhile Christian Spanish compatriots, many became pirates preying on Spanish New World shipping. A handful, the infamous Sallee Rovers, founded the Republic of the Bou Regreg in a ruined fort outside Rabat where they were joined by Dutch and English pirates until their republic was destroyed by the ancestors of the current kings of Morocco.
This tour traces the story of the myriad connections between al-Andalus and Morocco, their cultural legacy, and their imprint on the mountains and fertile green plains of northern Morocco. We shall explore the twelfth century architectural fusion of Andalusi and Berber styles in the great Almohad monuments of Rabat, and witness the handiwork of Andalusi and Maghribi craftsmen in the beautiful jewel-like Marinid madrasas of Fez, Meknes and Salé, built at the same time as the Alhambra palace. We shall also visit coastal towns rebuilt all or in part by Andalusi migrants with characteristic Mediterranean whitewashed walls and blue or green paintwork, and see the strongholds from which Andalusis fought back in Rabat and the isolated mountain town of Chefchaouan.
ITINERARY
DAY 1
Leave from Tangier Airport following the arrival of the flight from London Gatwick (Air Arabia, currently 7.40pm) (flights are not included – see below). A light dinner will be served in the hotel restaurant on arrival. First of two nights in Tangier.
DAY 2
Tangier, Asilah. Morning visit of the Kasbah and the museum situated within before an afternoon visit of the charming port of Asilah on the Atlantic coast. Founded by Arab conquerors in the 9th century ad, Asilah was an important trading post and established strong links with the West under the Merinid Dynasty before it was stormed by the Portuguese in ad 1471. Today the town is well preserved with high rampart walls, small alleyways and white-washed houses. Overnight Tangier.
DAY 3
Tetouan, Chefchaouen. Drive east over the Anjera hills to the city of Tetouan, settled by refugees from Spain whose Moorish culture is clearly identifiable in the streets of the old city. Visit the Medina and attend a private performance of Andalusi music. Drive south to Chefchaouen to visit the kasbah and then on to Fez for the first of three nights.
DAY 4
Fez. Fes al-Bali, the traditional capital of northern Morocco, has a long history of interaction with al-Andalus. When it was founded in the eighth century, it was populated by local Berbers and Arabs from Iberia and one of its quarters is still call the al-Andalus quarter today. Over the centuries, its connections with al-Andalus deepened. See the Qarawiyyin Mosque with its ‘Cordoban’ minaret and Andalusi-inspired renovations, Marinid madrasas built in the Andalusi style, and many other examples of how the Moroccan ‘Andalusi’ style evolved. We shall also see craftsmen at work perpetuating artisanal traditions common to Morocco and medieval al-Andalus. Overnight Fez.
DAY 5
Fez. Fes al-Jadid was founded in the fourteenth century as the royal city of the Marinid dynasty. The Marinids had close relations with the Nasrids of Granada who built the Alhambra and exchanged courtiers, craftsmen and soldiers with them. See the facade of the royal palace and gateways executed in the Andalusi style and also the Jewish quarter of Fes, the Mellah, populated in part by immigrants from Spain who preferred to live under Islamic rule as the Catholic kings became more hostile to Judaism. Final night in Fez.
DAY 6
Meknes, Rabat. Our destination is Rabat but we stop at Meknes to visit the beautiful Bu Inaniya Madrasa and to have lunch. Continue to Morocco’s capital, arriving late afternoon. First of three nights in Rabat.
DAY 7
Rabat. The capital of the Kingdom since 1912 has long since been an important cultural bridge between the two regions. The unfinished Tower of Hasan, a gigantic project started in the 12th century is testament to Rabat’s prestige and mirrors the Giralda of Seville and Kutubiya of Marrakesh. In the same complex is the Mohamed V Mausoleum commemorating the sovereign responsible for regaining Morocco’s independence and decorated in art of Andalusian origin. In the afternoon walk through the city’s bustling and authentic walled Medina ending up in the Kasbah of the Oudayas, a wonderfully located complex of turquoise and white-washed houses with high ramparts and elaborate gates with views across the Wadi Bu Regreg and the Atlantic Ocean. Overnight Rabat.
DAY 8
Rabat, Salé. Situated outside the city walls, the vast necropolis of Chellah sits on a prosperous Roman city of Sala Colonia. Deserted in the 8th century, the site became a royal necroplis for the Marinid Sultans and is home to some fine mosaics and examples of Islamic architecture. Cross to the adjacent river bank and Rabat’s sister town, Salé, to visit the exquisite madrasa. The afternoon is free to explore Rabat with its fine examples of early 20th century architecture. Final night in Rabat.
DAY 9
Rabat, Casablanca. Drive to Casablanca, where King Hasan II decided to build his vast mosque which is both a symbol of monarchical power and religious legitimacy and also testament to the enduring appeal of the Andalusi architectural style in Morocco. Drive to Casablanca Aiprort in time for the flight to London Heathrow currently departing at 1.40pm.
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