- Wide-ranging survey of art and architecture with an emphasis on the Renaissance.
- Includes a private, after-hours visit to the Basilica di San Marco.
- Led by art historian Polly Buston, co-author of Titian’s Venice, a multi-media project that accompanied the 2003 National Gallery Titian exhibition.
- It is possible to combine this tour with Monteverdi in Venice, 2–7 November 2015.
INTRODUCTION
The Assumption of the Virgin, Titian.
For the world’s most beautiful city, Venice had an inauspicious start. The site was once merely a collection of mudbanks, and the first settlers came as refugees fleeing the barbarian destroyers of the Roman Empire. They sought to escape to terrain so inhospitable that no foe would follow.
The success of the community which arose on the site would have been beyond the wildest imaginings of the first Venetians. By the end of the Middle Ages Venice had become the leading maritime power in the Mediterranean and possibly the wealthiest city in Europe. The shallow waters of the lagoon had indeed kept her safe from malign incursions and she kept her independence until the end of the eighteenth century. ‘Once did she hold the gorgeous East in fee, and was the safeguard of the West, Venice, eldest child of liberty.’
Trade with the East was the source of that wealth and power, and the eastern connection has left its indelible stamp upon Venetian art and architecture. Western styles are here tempered by a richness of effect and delicacy of pattern which is redolent of oriental opulence. It is above all by its colour that Venetian painting is distinguished. And whether sonorous or poetic, from Bellini through Titian to Tiepolo, there remain echoes of the transcendental splendour of the Byzantine mosaics of St Mark’s.
That Venice survives so comprehensively from the days of its greatness, so little ruffled by modern intrusions, would suffice to make it the goal of everyone who is curious about the man-made world. Thoroughfares being water and cars nonexistent, the imagination traverses the centuries with ease. And while picturesque qualities are all-pervasive – shimmering Istrian limestone, crumbling stucco, variegated brickwork, mournful vistas with exquisitely sculpted details – there are not half-a-dozen cities in the world which surpass Venice for the sheer number of major works of architecture, sculpture and painting.
ITINERARY
DAY 1
Fly at c. 12.30pm from London Gatwick to Venice. Cross the lagoon by motoscafo(water taxi) to the hotel. There is an introductory walk in Piazza San Marco.
DAY 2
The morning walk includes S. Zaccaria and S. Giovanni in Bragora, two churches with outstanding Renaissance altarpieces by Vivarini, Bellini and Cima. The Scuola di S. Giorgio degli Schiavoni has a wonderful cycle of painting by Carpaccio. In the afternoon cross the bacino to Palladio’s beautiful island church of S. Giorgio Maggiore and then to the tranquil Giudecca to see his best church, Il Redentore. In the evening there is a special after-hours private visit to the Basilica of S. Marco, an 11th-century Byzantine church enriched over the centuries with mosaics, sculpture and various precious objects (subject to confirmation as bookings had not yet opened at time of print).
DAY 3
Cross the Grand Canal to the Dorsoduro district, location of the great Franciscan church of S. Maria Gloriosa dei Frari which has outstanding artworks including Titian’s Assumption, and the Scuola Grande di San Rocco, with dramatic paintings by Tintoretto. In the afternoon see the incomparably beautiful Doge’s Palace with pink Gothic revetment and rich Renaissance interiors.
DAY 4
Cross the lagoon by motoscafo to the island of Torcello, once the rival of Venice but now scarcely inhabited. Virtually all that remains of the city is the magnificent Veneto-Byzantine cathedral with its 12th-century mosaics. Continue by vaporetto(water bus) to the pretty glass-making island of Murano.
DAY 5
In the morning visit the vast gothic church of SS. Giovanni e Paolo, the early Renaissance S. Maria dei Miracoli with its multicoloured stone veneer, and S. Giovanni Crisostomo with its Bellini altarpiece. In Dorsoduro, visit the church of S. Sebastiano with decoration by Veronese, and the nearby Scuola Grande dei Carmini with fine ceiling paintings by Tiepolo.
DAY 6
The morning is free. Spend the afternoon in the Accademia, Venice’s major art gallery, where all the Venetian painters are well represented.
DAY 7
The Ca’ Rezzonico is a magnificent palace on the Grand Canal, now a museum of 18th-century art. For those not combining this tour with the festival: travel by motoscafo to Venice airport and fly to London Gatwick, arriving at c. 6.00pm.
Final day of the festival, 7th November. For those combining this tour with the festival: travel by motoscafo to Venice airport. Fly to London Gatwick, arriving at c. 12.45pm.
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