Cocktail hour in Turin goes beyond a drink and a few free nibbles. John Brunton on the bars that serve up sumptuous buffets
Turin is Italy's capital of the aperitivo, home of world famous brands like Martini Rosso, Cinzano and Gancia. Locals have been sipping their aperitivi in the city's grandiose cafes for over 200 years, and today, the sumptuous buffets that accompany early evening drinks make an entertaining and economic alternative to shelling out for dinner at a restaurant. Here are five of the most beautiful historic locales, and five funkier modern alternatives. A couple of golden rules - apertivo runs roughly from 6-9pm, drinks are priced at €5-10, including the buffet. Remember, though, that if you go into these cafes during aperitivo hour then you'll pay the upped price whether you eat or not. And always check the difference in price at the bar compared to seated at a table.
1. Caffe San Carlo
Inaugurated in 1822, the San Carlo is one of the most grandiose cafes in Turin and boasts a sumptuous apertitvo buffet. Situated under the arches of the baroque Piazza San Carlo, don't be fooled by the discreet entrance, as you walk into what resembles a glittering ballroom, with crystal Murano chandeliers, marble floor and gilded mirrors. Aperitivo runs from 6-8.30pm, with wine and cocktails costing €8. The buffet includes dozens of different canapes, salads, salami and cheeses.
• Piazza San Carlo, 156. +39 (0)11 532586.
2. Caffe Torino
Right at the other end of the arcade from the Caffe San Carlo, the Torino opened in 1903 decorated in an equally grand Art Nouveau decor, though the atmosphere here is more relaxed. The bright red neon sign outside advertises the city's most famous aperitf, Martini, and the house speciality is a Negroni cocktail, a lethal mix of Martini Rosso, Campari and gin. Although this used to be a celebrity haunt, today's clientele is more a friendly mix of business types and students, and a drink between 6-9pm is priced between €5-7, and lets you snack off a huge selection of dishes laid out along the bar.
• Piazza San Carlo 204, +39 (0)11 545118, caffe-torino.it.
3. Caffe Mulassano
By far the most discreet of Turin's ancient bars, this miniscule "buvetto" is hidden away beneath the shady arcades that surround the city's royal palaces. For 150 years, Mulassano has been serving its aromatic house aperitif, made in its own distillery, and every drink - at any time of the day - is accompanied by a delicious plate of "tramezzini" sandwiches and toasts, prepared on the spot by the barman. €5 to drink at the bar, €7 sitting down, but worth the splash out.
• Piazza Castello, 15, +39 (0)11 547990, caffemulassano.com.
4. Caffe Platti
If you visit just one of Turin's historic locales then it has to be the lustrous, belle epoque Caffe Platti. Open from the early morning till late at night, this is a vibrant meeting place, from genteel ladies sipping a "biccerin", Turin's traditional coffee, mixed with bitter chocolate and topped off with thick cream, to the noisy evening crowd discussing the fortunes of Juventus or the latest gaffe by Berlusconi. Aperitivo runs from 6-9pm, and although you can take a table in the opulent salon, it is more fun - and cheaper - to squeeze in at the bar, which is lined with plates of canapes, pizzette and tempting cakes from their own bakery. A glass of wine will set you back €5.
• Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 72, +39 (0)11 5069056, platti.it.
5. Floris House
Situated on the first floor of an 18th-century palazzo, the Floris House resembles an Aladdin's Cave, with room after room brimming with perfumes, flowers, interior decor, furniture, fashions and accessories. But Turin locals in-the-know also come here as there is a cosy cocktail bar, overseen by a classy barman who shakes great Margaritas and Mojitos. While the shop stays open late, apertivo-lovers come here between 5.30-9pm to feast off plates of smoked salmon and pâté, with drinks costing between €7-10.
• Via Cavour 16, +39 (0)11 8126909, floris-profumi.it.
6. Lobelix
There are dozens of hip aperitivi bars dotted around Turin these days, transforming later into funky dance clubs, but it was Lobelix that started the trend and remains the best place to kick off a night of partying. The barmen are brilliant at inventing cocktails, pretty reasonably priced at €7, and huge plates of food - pizzas, pastas, grilled veggies, fresh tuna salad - never stop coming out of the kitchen from 6.30pm right through till 10pm.
• Piazza Savoia 4, +39 (0)11 4367206.
7. Pastis
Decorated in a colourful 1950's retro style, Pastis could be described as an "alternative cafe". To begin with, the traditional aperitivo buffet is served from 5.30-8pm (plates of prosciutto crudo, smoked sausage, cheeses, quiche and the ubiquitous pizza) - but it is on the house - drink prices stay the same, between €3-4 for a beer or glass of wine. The bar then turns into a restaurant, but serving light, creative Sicilian cuisine rather than hearty Piemontese dishes. There is also a gallery promoting young artists, with weekly exhibition opening parties every Wednesday at 10pm.
• Piazza Emanuele Filiberto 9 b, +39 (0)11 5211085.
8. Arancia di Mezzanotte
This cool Mediterranean venue is part restaurant, part cocktail bar, part gourmet food shop, and definitely boasts the most extravagant aperitivo feast in town. Drinks are one price at €8, but it's impossible to imagine a better deal, as the chef puts on a gastronomic spread of dozens of specialities from the Piedmont region. Don't miss "bagna cauda", a spicy anchovy dip with raw vegetables, and "vitello tonnato", roast veal in a creamy tuna sauce.
• Piazza Emanuele Filiberto 11, +39 (0)11 5211838, aranciadimezzanotte.it.
9. Caffe Roberto
Piazza Vittoria Veneto is the biggest square in Italy, and this lively neighbourhood is the unofficial nightlife capital of Turin. On the Piazza itself, the Drogheria has its own in-house DJ blasting sounds from as early as 6pm, while on nearby Via Po, Caffe Abate was once a venerable cake shop, now a favourite rendezvous for students drawn by its cheap drinks and copious buffet. But the best address is Caffe Roberto, whose owner has invented "apericena", not just nibbles but a huge self-service meal accompanying apertivi from 6-9.30pm. For €7 - same price for a cocktail, beer, wine or a glass of water - guests can stuff themselves with pastas and risotto, roast meats, salads, irresistible tiramisu.
• Via Po 5, +39 (0)11 8390214.
10. Numero Otto Caffe
Don't expect to find this fun, friendly bar in guide books or even on the web, as it is an example of the sort of neighbourhood hangout you'll just discover by getting lost in the backstreets of Turin. Looking out on the beautiful Piazza Bodoni, dominated by the rather grand Giuseppe Verdi Music Auditorium, Numero Otto is all bright modern colours and design, Italian pop and rap on the sound system, while friendly owner, Jessica, conjures up delicious fruity non-alcoholic cocktails alongside the classic Martini and Americano. Tasty buffet of garlicky tomato bruschetta, cold cuts and "stuzzichini", finger food, served from 8.30-9pm, drinks from €3.50-5.
• Via Mazzini 8, +39 (0)11 7630367.
• All photographs by John Brunton
No comments:
Post a Comment